Photo Archiving on DVD

Using digital cameras and camcorders with your HDTV system
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Storing picture files to DVD

Postby CFredG » 24 Nov 2007, 07:03

I am a photographer with thousands of photos on DVD and at times show them using an HD monitor (Samsung). The simplest route for you (and perhaps the least expensive) may be to invest in a video board for your computer that has high resolution capability along with HDMI output.

With my set-up using an All-In-Wonder X1800XL video board along with an HDMI-Link Digital Extender (switch box) I can capture video from my Directv HD receiver, use Adobe Premier (or Pinacle Studio 9) to edit (take our commercials, etc.) and then output to DVD. The DVD's can be played on the comptuer or in a standard DVD player (granted, not true HD but great quality).

And as to your question, I archive all of my photos on DVD in .jpg format (a 4.7 Gb DVD will hold thousands of photos, depending on the resolution). And with the push of a button on the switch box, my Samsung HD monitor/HD TV can be used to show all of my photos stored on DVD at their original .jpg or .bmp or .tif or .whatever quality. Doing it this way negates the need for multiple images (for the video of a still shot) and any cheap photo display program can replicate that with a "slide show" function (even the Windows Picture and Fax Viewer).

Happy shooting/scanning

Roger Halstead
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DVD archive to HDTV

Postby Roger Halstead » 24 Nov 2007, 19:03

The question was can you display those high res images on the HD TV? The answer is one of those "It all depends".
IF you are using a computer with a video card that can match or exceed the resolution of the TV AND has either DVI or HDMI output AND the TV is capable of serving as a monitor as many are, then it's almost plug and play. In which case you should be able to get very good results. Use either a DVI or HDMI cable between the computer and TV. However if you plan on doing thousands of the old family photos you can plan on spending a lot of time in front of the computer. I use the Nikon LS5000ED with the SF210 feeder. Between slides and color negatives I've scanned in over 30,000 images. Other than using ICE (which doesn't work well on most Kodachrome slides) I did very little post processing. All were scanned at the maximum 4000 dpi resolution. If you've scanned many images you know how much time is required per slide. Just multiply that by 30,000.

I would note that a video card that can match the resolution of the good monitors is not inexpensive but they are becoming more reasonable. that also means a computer with a fair amount of horse power.

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Making "movies" out of old slides

Postby jerfilm » 25 Nov 2007, 05:16

MadeinAlaska, I am doing exactly what you're talking about. I threw away my Nikkon scanner (the Scuzzi card with it blew my motherboard.....!!!) and bought a Microtek Scanmaker i900. It'll do negatives up to 8x10 and does a superb job of restoring old b&w 620's from 60 and 70 years ago. It will scan up to 12 slides at a time. It also copies reflective material as well. However, as Roger pointed out, converting slides is VERY time consuming. My slides go back as far as the 50s and 60s and while they have been kept in very good conditions, they are certainly not all exposed perfectly and I'd say about 85% of them need some diddling. Enter PhotoShop Elements. Add contrast, fix the color, sharpen ones that need it, crop out grandma's leg - if you're any kind of perfectionist with your pictures, you'll be hooked on making them look even better than when you took 'em. Trust me. I scan them at at least 300% of the original size and at least 400 dpi resolution. If it looks like I might crop it down some, I scan at higher resolution and size. You could crop using the scanner software, but slides are so small it just seems easier to do it after you've blown it up a bit.

Here I depart from some of the others. I don't take stills anymore - I've been doing HDTV since the first consumer camera came out several years ago. I use Sony Vegas Pro 8 and Sony DVD Architect programs to convert the tv to DVDs - ah, soon, HD DVDs, Pro 8 has bluray capabilities - and so I use these two programs to put the slides on a 50" old Pioneer plasma. These two programs are bundled and sold as a package but it is quite expensive and you could do the same thing with Roxio's package and perhaps others less expensive.

What I like about using a movie maker package is that you can add titles, you have the full panoply of transitions (and you can use the ones YOU choose, not some random slide show), you can zoom in on anything of particular interest, you can add music easily and if you wish, even narration. And trust me, making the final "movie" takes far, far less time than scanning all those slides.

I think the downside no matter what you do is that your "portrait" slides are going to be small compared to everything else. And I guess there's just no way around that. When making the movie, I try to lump a few portraits together so I'm not continually jumping from horizontal to vertical and back and forth.

Another thing I've done a bit of is cropping. You'd be surprised how many of your landscape slides can be cropped to 16x9, giving your slide show a more "high def" look. And if you're already diddling each one in Photoshop, it only takes a second to set up a custom 16x9 crop and then only a couple of seconds to crop each one.

Just ideas from an old guy.....


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Re: Photo Archiving on DVD

Postby daniell » 08 Sep 2011, 03:42

+1 to Microtek Scanmaker i900! :!:
In our company we, however, installed the i900 twice. Hoisting this behemoth around is not for everyone. At roughly 25 wide-bodied pounds, it's awkward to pull out of the box and hard to lift.

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Re: Photo Archiving on DVD

Postby rml » 12 Sep 2011, 05:34

Although slow, I'd scan at the maximum resolution of your scanner (4,000 dpi) and archive the high res scans to disk or blu-ray, not dvd; these files are large and you'll use up a lot of disk space in a hurry. Blu-ray burners are now around $100 +/-. Then downsize the "originals" for display on a hdtv (1080p or 780p), paying attention to preserving the original aspect ratio of each picture; most photo programs, e.g., Adobe Photoshop Elements, allow resolution reduction by a simple file save.

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