My Samsung rear projection DLP has gone dark. I forgot the model #, but it's in the HLN series, a 60" screen.
The picture had been looking darker recently and I was thinking maybe the bulb and I called it in to the warranty company because I took out the 5 yr plan. They were supposed to come last Thursday but did not show up and last night the pictrure went completely dark during the Wizzard of Oz. Must have been the wicked witch. The green light on/off indicator keeps blinking but there is no picture.
I know it's going to take at least a few days for another appointment, so is there anything I can do myself in the meantime to fix this?
Samsung DLP Problem
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Richard
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HDinTX
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Dead DVI Input
My three year old Sammy HLN567WX has a dead DVI input. All of the other inputs are okay. Any ideas on what it will take to get it repaired? 
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Richard
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Hi there HDinTX,
Depending on who you call and the going rates in your location expect $300-600 which is allowing a lot for a board I have yet to price out...
Good Luck!
Try NESDA first
http://www.nesda.com/locator/state_search.php
Local yellow pages second.
This guy is a possibility and excellent www.intechlabs.com based on the location you gave in your profile...
Depending on who you call and the going rates in your location expect $300-600 which is allowing a lot for a board I have yet to price out...
Good Luck!
Try NESDA first
http://www.nesda.com/locator/state_search.php
Local yellow pages second.
This guy is a possibility and excellent www.intechlabs.com based on the location you gave in your profile...
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Tombanjo
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Re: Dead DVI Input
I'm assuming you don't have the protection plan. You might want to raise a stink with either the store or the warranty people, saying that the connections on these sets are faulty and that you have been reading about it all over the internet. Maybe they will do the right thing.HDinTX wrote:My three year old Sammy HLN567WX has a dead DVI input. All of the other inputs are okay. Any ideas on what it will take to get it repaired?
I'm about to call them again, because after they took my set back and fixed my lamp (and bursar) problem, two of the three component inputs don't work. What's worse is one reads "connected," which screws up my remote switching sequence, something that took me a week to program in. I only use one of those inputs, but I paid for the plan so I'll get it fixed anyway. Hope they can do this one here and not take the set again.