I will be running new RG6 cable, is there any differance in the wall plate connectors? some places advertize 1Ghz others do not specify. Is there any signal loss using the connector? should I even consider it? or should I just run the cable out of a wall plate with a hole in it and run the cable directly to the TV / Cable Modem / Cable Box?
I'm new to this, so any help would be great.
Thanks
There can be some signal loss with a connector but this is the same as an inline coax connector. As long as you use a good quality device and connectors and it's the only one in the line I don't see a problem.
I couldn't be certain from your 'post' but - as long as you are busy at this, why not 'spend' just a tad more & use quad coax ? And, do buy your own compression termination tool, NOT a "crimper" for the coax ends!
As akirby already said, do not "skimp" on that specific wall plate termination.
Since all this will be "behind" the bulk of the HDTV anyway, I prefer to Not spend the monies at all & do exactly what you asked - use only a "telephone line / small hole" plate , rather than Any other - avoids a 'double connection'....simply go on - uninterrupted - to the "RF" input in question
>>>>>edited to add ....P.S.....<<<<<<<<
Don't forget to put coax thru that plate hole Before compressing the terminal ???
Thanks,
I did get the RG6 Quad Cable with compression connectors and tools.
I think I will just run the cable through the wall and cover it with the wall plate with the small hole.
Because I will be doing this a few times, I know that I will forget to put the cable through the hole first, at least once.
Just an FYI, DirecTv does specify that the feed throughs (F-81's) and even the ground block along with the coax should be frequency sweapt to 3 Ghz. Such items are available. They are typically identified with a BLUE center insert. Check out http://www.fadfusion.com/sitesearch.php ... erydept=00 and http://www.fadfusion.com/selection.php? ... 0161200695
This may be "hype", however I have seen regular F-81's degrade over time. probably depends on the enviroment. My system is installed with all components that meet DirecTv's specs of 3 Ghz.
Not only have I had F-81's fail over time but I personally consider them a "single use device" and don't reuse them if I have to disconnect them for any reason. I have also had faulty grounding blocks - in one case attentuating 50% of my signal strength. Analyzing (under a binocular zoom microscope) those things, it almost appears they were originally designed for RG58 which had a smaller center conductor. RG6 stretches them out and the connection is compromised. The less connections the better. Leave lots of service loop because you will periodically want to cut off an inch or two and replug the cables. Be sure to use waterproof types (with rubber o-rings) for outdoor use and a little silicon grease on the threads won't hurt either. Shrink Tubing over the whole deal is not a bad idea either. Always have drip loops in your outdoor cables and NEVER into any splices, splitters or connectors. I ran all of my cables directly from the multiswitch to the STB's with one exception - the grounding block (you only have to ground one lead). It is essential for safety and your OTA antenna must have a grounding block as well. Since I have all copper pipes (which are attached to a earthen grounding rod per our local code) I was able to use a simple saddle clamp for grounding the blocks. Use at least 12G (green insulated) wire for grounding.
I have looked for RG6 hardware and other than the larger ID "F" connectors haven't found any specifically designated for RG6. If anyone know where to procure some please post it.
It amazes me that you can have a 20 grand home theater system with a $.39 connector being the weak link.
3GHz huh? That requires some pretty specialized test equipment to measure. Most lab grade oscilloscopes rarely go above 1GHz and those that do are considered very high end (my 1GHz scope originally cost over 30G). Frequency counter are rare at that frequency as well. I have an "MIT" quality electronics bench with all fluke, HP (Agilent) and Tektronix gear and other than a few frequency generators on my RF bench (Spectrum ~ 512KHz to 13GHz) I can't measure anything higher than 1 GHz and that's with a sampling plug in in a Tektronix 7104 series mainframe scope. Oh, and then there's the test probes - they cost a fortune as well. I would seriously doubt that those litttle pocket testors are of sufficient quality to make 3GHz measurements (like the one Direct TV and other installers carry around ).
You forgot to say what you are getting the signal from be it cable, satellite, or off the air. Unless you have a very weak signal you can put a half dozen connectors in the line and never notice the difference. I'm running over 200 feet of RG-6 that is grounded through a bulkhead connector at the base of the tower, another at the bulkhead where it comes into the house, two connectors where it goes through a lightning suppressor, and a splitter before the receiver which means two more F-connectors. Use good quality compression connectors that fit the cable you have.
For satellite and cable where the signals on the cable are strong this should be a no brainer. For OTA it depends on the signal strength. So if you are a long distance from the transmitter and the signal is marginal then the extra connectors *might* make enough difference to notice. However it's been my experience we worry too much about the added loss of connectors. If the signal is weak enough that an extra connector or two is cause for worry, then put in a good quality antenna mounted preamp. That will give enough signal you can quit worrying about connectors.
Where the signal loss is noticeable is when using multiple splitters or splitters with a large number of ports. Remember a two way divider is 3 db of loss per line. A divider with 4 output ports is down 6 db and these figures are much greater than you'd see with a single bulkhead connector. There is little loss in a properly installed connector when it comes to real world situations.
I spend a lot of time troubshooting TV and cable-modem problems professionally in homes. Almost all these problems end up being in the connections, but occassionally the problems are in the cabling itself.
First, the cable. Quad is much harder to terminate properly and has absolutly no benefit in terms of signal attenuation. The proper application for quad is in the wiring of head end equipment where one wishes to minimize signal transfer from one cable to another. Head-ends frequently have some cables with very high levels (perhaps 50 dBmV or more) and others much lower (perhaps 0 dBmV) and to keep signals from leaking from one cable to another, especially when they travel in parallel for long distances and are in a tight harness, it makes sense to use Quad. In a home, the only time you might consider quad is if you have a long run of cable and your house is next door to a TV transmitting antenna or something. Always be picky in buying cable; cable from many do-it-yourself outlets is garbage. Make sure that the cable has both an aluminum foil shield and a braided sheild. Cheap cable has only a foil shield and a few small conductors running between the sheild and jacket. If you have some extra money to spend, put the money into good standard cable rather than cheap quad.
Cable failure tends almost always to result from abuse of the cable. The biggest problem is when the cable is installed by electricians, who often use Romex staples. If you smash a cable with a staple, it will probably work fine for a year or so, but eventually the insulation flows and a huge impedance "bump" occurs. After a while, the cable is useless. If you MUST staple cables, only use staples or other devices that have a plastic constraint that does not pinch the cable.
But the great majority of trouble calls are due to connectors. The absolute worse offenders are the screw-on connectors that are in vogue in the do-it-yourself stores these days. Failure to make a secure contact with the shield is the usual result. I use Cable-Pro connectors with an internal O-ring seal and the matching radial crimping tool, but snap-and-seal connectors and their tool also have a good track record. Since the proper tools are very expensive, it would be a good idea to find somebody who has the right tools to do the connections for you. I do them for free in our system because it takes me much less time to put fitting on correctly than to have to locate the problem in a botched do-it-yourself job and fix it on a trouble call. If you are going to invest in a professional crimping tool, also purchase a stripping tool. That will ensure that the dimensions of the strip are correct for the connectors that you are using.
One detail often overlooked when crimping connectors on coax is how far the inner conductor extends past the fitting. If it is too short, it won't penetrate the female connector enough to make a connection. If it is too long, it will spread the female receptor, permanently damaging it. Always cut the center conductor so that it protrudes past the connector body only about one sixteenth of an inch.
On the question of wall plates, they are nothing more than F-81 barrels on a plastic plate. You can pay a bit more for high-frequency F-81s, but the actual difference is going to be less than 1 dB except at the extremes. If you are on a 450 or 750 MHz system, I woudn't bother with the high-frequency F81s, but cable systems sometimes go to 860 MHz or higher. Most people prefer wall plates because they make a neater installation, a wall plate addes two extra fittings, and that is two more opportunities for connector failure. My advice is to avoid the wall plate if you ignore my advice on using professional fittings and tools. Just make a hole in the wall (or use a wall plate with a hole in it) and run the wire into the room.
Finally, it is important to tighten all fittings properly. I carry a 7/16 combination wrench on my keyring so it will always be handy. NEVER use the push-on jumper cables that ship with many TV appliances.
One final note. When experiencing a TV signal problem, it can be helpful to understand the nature of the failure. If the low channels are okay and the high channels are bad, look for a cable failure (e.g., using RG-59 instead of RG-6 or RG-11). If the high channels are okay and the low channels are bad, look for a connector problem; high channels will "jump" an open inner conductor connection (capacitive coupling) far better than low channels.
I ran all of my cables directly from the multiswitch to the STB's with one exception - the grounding block (you only have to ground one lead).
Please confirm...running only one grounding block for one of four multiswitch output cables will provide adequate grounding for both pairs of cables leading to two separate STB receivers (HR10 & HR20)?
I was addressing my remarks mainly to Cable customers, but they apply to satellite with some exceptions. Wiring between a receiver and multi-switch is in the 1-5Ghz range, and high-frequency F-81 (wall plate) connectors should definitely be used. Cable that has been swept to 5 or 10 GHz would also be worth the investment in satellite systems.
The importance of ground varies with the type of system and how vulnerable the system is to lightning or other potential surges. In the system I maintain, distribuition is by underground cable, so the danger of lightning surges is much diminished. But roof-top dish systems definitely require attention to the possibility of dangerous surges.
Grounding is generally done at the device through which the signal enters the home. That would probably be a splitter, directional coupler, or distribution amplifier if cable, but it might be a multi-switch or a diplexer if it is a home with both cable and satellite. Many times a special grounding device is used, consisting of an F-81 barrel connector(s) mounted in a ground block of some kind. If you are using a multiswitch, especially with multiple LNBs, every cable from the dish needs to be grounded, but if the multiswitch is located close to where the cables come into the house, I would think that just grounding the multiswitch itself would do the job. I would take a hint from local building codes as to the guage of the ground wire and the particulars as to how the ground connection should be established (cold water pipe or actual grounding rod).
In cable systems, one reason for requiring grounding is to prevent AC from going backwards up the cable plant, thus becomming a hazard to workers. The same applies to telephone pairs, which have grounded "protection blocks" at the point the wires come into the house. Many TV and audio systems may not have proper U-grounded outlets, especially in older homes, and can thus leak power to any coaxial cable since that thus becomes the only path to ground. Few TVs and related appliances have 3-wire plugs these days. So when a worker disconnects a cable for maintenance, he can get a shock by touching the connector coming from the house. (I've gotten zapped this way many times.) Satellite systems are subject to the same hazards, as you don't want a shock when adjusting or troubleshooting an LNB on a roof if you get between the cable and a vent pipe or something. So it is wise to take grounding seriously.
The subject of grounding brings up the issue of ground loops, which can introduce power-line "hum" both into the audio and into the video (where it appears as a slowly rolling bar or band or brightness/dimness on NTSC TV, but which is less of a problem with satellite or digital cable). But that is a whole different discussion.
Be sure to check the local codes. Here, all cables must be grounded so with a dual feed both cables must run through a grounding block on the mast or tower (or within a few feet) and *before* they enter the house. Even when running in underground it's a good idea to ground them at the base of the tower otherwise a lightning strike on the tower can put quite a spike through a long run of cable. I would add that the capacitance to ground should bleed off a good deal of the charge.
My OTA antennas and my satellite dish are on a 100 foot tower. ( http://www.rogerhalstead.com/ham_files/Tower26.htm ) The UHF antenna pointing NW is clearly visible while the one pointing south is pretty much invisible. The photo was shot before the dish was mounted. The two UHF antennas with remote preamps are about 90 feet with the small DISH Network dish at roughly 20 feet. All 4 cables go through grounding blocks at the base of the tower and again where they enter the house. They run underground from the tower to the house entrance which is about 75 feet. Actually they go through a grounded bulkhead where they enter the house. That tower takes at least 3 strikes a year. I say "at least" as that many are verified (seen). I've had no damage to any equipment since finishing up the ground system on the overall antenna system. And with that many connectors in line I still have a good signal. I should add the TV antennas and dish are in a rather strong RF environment, but there is no noticeable interaction.
I have a new addition to my house and the RG6 cables were run individually to each wall plate. I have a Monster splitter from the main cable TV line. I have a new hdtv that I connected to a previously unused/untested cable and was receiving terrible signal.
Channels 2-10 were practically unviewable then they got better until 73 and then for some strange reason channel 800 (preview channel) was EXCELLENT. Channels 940-960 or so were HD and great.
I was going to leave it like this except I realized that I was not getting any CBS and wanted to watch football. First thing I did was put an old TV set on that line and at least I could see channels 2-10 but all of the channels didn't look so good. Also, sometimes the HD (900) local channels would go out for no reason (no rain etc.).
Thinking the problem might be the splitter, I had a long rg6 line that I ran from the new TV out the window and to the splitter connecting it EXACTLY where the line that it should be using was connected. Voila GORGEOUS Picture on all channels.
I had had a similar problem before and thought that maybe the connectors had been incorrectly installed resulting in some of the braided shielding touching the center wire. I proceeded to cut the cable using and RG6 stripping/cutting tool and connected GE RG6 Crimp Connectors.
I tested and it was even worse! Now I can't get the 900 range channels although channels 3-10 are slightly better. Strangely, channel 800 is still excellent!
I tried disconnecting that cable from the splitter and connecting it directly to the cable input (from cable TV provider) but that did nothing to improve so I'm convinced the splitter is not the problem.
I've connected the TV to other jacks around the house and the picture has been great so I believe there is either a problem on the connectors on that specific cable or the cable is damaged?
The problem is that I have a flat-roof house and as such, there is no easy way to replace the cable. I also remember that particular cable run (since it went in a different direction than the others) and can't imagine what could be causing the problem since is was a clear path from the splitter.
I don't want to keep cutting and crimping connectors -- I'm about to go to radio shack to see if they have some that are better than the ones I bought.
I've done this before but just in case, this is what I do:
Use tool to split/cut cable.
pull back braided mesh a bit. Ensure none is on the center connector.
Push and twist the connector into place until the white insulation is level with bottom of connector.
Crimp using larger of 2 holes (on my crimping tool).
I'ts tough to troubleshoot this kind of problem when you don't have a cable test set (frequency selective voltmeter) to actually measure the signal level at each channel. I carry that thing on every trouble call and would be lost without it. But you do have a TV that is portable enough to carry around and you'll have to use that as your test set.
First off, if you have a digital cable box, don't assume that your cable company's channel numbers have anything whatever to do with the actual physical cable channel on the cable. That's too bad because you really want to be looking at the worse case channels at each point that you test. Also, if your service is 100% digital, you will need to drag the cable box around with the TV to test it. However, if there are analog signals on the cable (used for simulcasting), you might be able to use those with your TV without the cable box. Channel 2 is the lowest and the higher-number channels are highest, but avoid doing any testing with channels 14-22 and 95-99 because those analog channels are not where you might think they are. So if you have an alalog signal on 2 and one that is above 100, use those as your benchmarks.
Splitter failures are rare, but you can check that the connectors on the splitter are not spread apart; if they are, you need to replace the splitter. The biggest splitter problem is the attempt to use vintage splitters. If a splitter does not have a frequency range on it, throw it out. If it does, you probably should get one that goes to 1000 MHz. I'm not impressed with whether a splitter has an atom of gold plating or if it is made by a particular vendor (e.g., Monster). A good professional-grade splitter is what you need. Unfortunatly, the companies that I get that kind of stuff from have $100 minimums so is is not easy for non-professonals to get cable, splitters, connectors, etc., of good quality.
It sounds like you understand the problem of making a good crimp. You don't want any insulation clinging to the center conductor and you don't want the center conductor projecting too far from the connector. You do want the cable insulation to stop at the seat of the connector. You do want the connectors' ferrul to go between the insulation and the shield and you do want to perform a good crimp on the outside of the connector that will compress the shield against the connector's ferrul. You can test a connector with your portable TV set by stressing it (wiggling it) to make sure that it is stable.
It sounds like the cable under the flat roof has failed. Is it possible that the roofers have damaged it? If so, you pretty much are stuck with replacing the cable, running it over the top of the roof. Try to run a single piece of cable, rather than making a bunch of splices. A cable with a half dozen connectors and F81 barrels is a nightmare to troubleshoot, and even when you get it working it can easily fail again when weather gets into it (especially avoid splices outdoors where moisture can penetrate the connector. Never put splitters outside in the weather -- if the must go outside, put them under eaves where rain will not get to them. Professionals will put splitters behind wall plates where they are out of the weather but still accessible. (Never put a splitter behind a wall where you can't get at it!).
So you can start with your splitter and bring your portable TV there and make sure that each outlet is working -- especially those that are giving you trouble. Then go to the other end of each cable run and see if it is working. If not, the problem is in the cable or connectors on that run.
It is possible that the cable company is not giving you enough signal for the amount of splitting that you are doing and log cable runs. If you have a 2-way or 3-way splitter, no problem but if you are splitting too much you might not be getting enough signal to each TV. Sometimes people put splitters after splitters without realizing that splitter loss is cumulative. A 2-way splitter costs you 3.5 dB, a 4-way costs you 7 dB and an 8-way costs you 10.5 dB. When you get that much splitting going on you may need a distribution amplifier to build the signal up to a level that will survive the total splitter loss. Professional grade amplifiers are hard to find; look for one that goes to 1000 MHz and that has a gain of about 12 or 15 dB. Don't use an amplifier unless you are sure you need one; if you have enough signal and put in an amplifier, you will overdrive the amplifier and get a whole lot of intermodulation distortion that will make matters much worse than not having an amplifier at all.
Since you lack a test meter, see if you can find a 16 or 20 dB coaxial pad. Put that in the line to your test TV and see what happens. If you still get a watchable analog signal with the pad in place, you have plenty of level to play with and you don't need an amplifier. Also, if you get an amplifier, make sure that it has a reverse path below 50 MHz if you are using a cable modem or connect the cable modem before the amplifier by using a 10 dB directional coupler and connecting the modem at the tap.
As a substitution for the cable has already been tried (out the window) and worked. The original cable has bypassed the splitter and didn't work it has to be either the cable or connectors. As the connectors have apparently been changed several times it pretty much narrows it down to the cable across the roof. I assume this runs under the roofing. To me it looks like a case of replacing that original cable no matter how difficult.
Might it be possible to run a new cable via a different route? If not, can the old cable be pulled out? If it can then fasten the new cable securely to the end of the old cable. Use lots of wire pulling soap on the new run of RG-6 and pull it in by pulling the old cable out. Hopefully the old cable isn't stapled in place. If it is that could be one of the problems. BTW, I've never been able to get a good crimp using one of the Radio Shack tools so I've gone to the commercial compression connectors with no problems although the tools are a bit more pricy than the crimp tools.
It only takes a roofing nail or a staple and there goes your RG6. You said you had a flat roof, I take it that you mean tar and gravel? You could just lay a cable on top - just make sure it's rated for the UV exposure. Most RG6 is pretty tough stuff - get a commercial grade and white if you are in a hot climate. Home Depot may have the cable.
I have a Radio Shack crimper and it works just fine for me (although the ratcheting type is superior, they cost an arm and a leg) Make sure you use outdoor type F connectors (they'll have a rubber gasket inside). Making your own cables is an art and takes practice. The only calbes I don't make myself are toslink.
To add to what Herbdrake said about placing the splitter under the eaves, also make sure that you have drip loops that route the water away from the splitter (or multiswitches also for that matter). Or any other connection points like F81 couplers or grouding couplers as well.
I have wired my entire 2 story house and a separate detached home theater and have no cable problems whatsoever. I also have 8 hardwired RJ45 CAT 5e cables for my LAN/WAN.
90% of the time, Quad is a totally unnecessary expense and hassle.
With the newest satellite systems, 3 Gig barrels are essential, otherwise you'll have delay when changing channels and intermittent goofy problems.
As for weather protection, I have found most gaskets, seals, Bear Crap, tape, etc. tend to hold moisture in rather than keep it out. I exclusively use Cross Devices STUF dielectric waterproofing filler and on occasion, a swipe of Scotchkote 3M Electrical Coating (boats, waterfront, mountain tops, industrial smog) in conjunction with good drip loops. Never let wires sit in water, for some reason the high frequencies just suck it in. Weigh cable that sat in water vs. always dry - oh yeah, that water ain't helping things.
Good connections take resolve: Watch for stray strands of shield, remnant plastic on the center conductor, wire not fully inserted in fitting, center conductor too short or too long (too long can cause havoc inside the device), corrosion, too tight a bend (will withdraw center conductor), shield pushed down by fitting, etc.
I've found the Digicon connectors, both old and new, to be the best performing.
I wonder why there are no comments on this forum about the RG6 copper core? I have found cable with varying thickness of the copper core. I also suspect the copper core could be made with very pure copper or copper with other materials to save money.
Does the thickness of the copper core make a difference? Is thicker better? Is there any way to tell if it is quality copper?
Usually, one may be able to "read' that data which is printed upon the cable periodically.
Yes, as one goes "longer" in the uninterrupted piece from antenna connection to the rear terminal of HDTV, there's the need of considering a heavier gage. Good Quad Coax starts w/ 18 -- usually stops at 14 ga.
At a 50' section w/ premium Digicon Compression connectors, the 18 is fine.
For 100', do get that 14 ga..
There are various amplifiers BUT don't, unless absolutely no choice. Get a better antenna, instead.
There are many, many but www.solidsignal.com is at least one web site for all such supplies -
Here's some more info about these different gauges -
RG-6 has a larger diameter center conductor than RG59 and it also has more insulation around the center conductor. I have never heard of RG-6 in anything but solid core but I could be wrong about that. What differentiates quality cable is the degree of the shielding which can affect the bandwidth as well.
I have a roll of old HP test coax here that has triple braid. It is so quiet that you can leave 20' of it plugged into a guitar amplifier, unterminated, at full volume and not hear anything at all.
Cheaper cable may have as little as 50% shielding. You really want 100%, especially for RF purposes.
Another issue to be considered is whether you need plenum cable. That would used in high temperature environments, around heating ducts, etc.
There are a couple of points, but first I'd like to say it's nice to see some one who understands where quad shield is likely to be needed and where it's a waste of time and money.
Where to ground? Grounding blocks and... The mast or what ever the dish/antenna mounts on should be grounded. If it's just bolted to the end of the house or a post then the antenna or dish should have a ground. In most places it's required by the code. There should be a grounding block at this point. Unless this point is quite close to where the coax enters the home there should also be a grounding bulkhead at that point as in the 4th photo down on http://www.rogerhalstead.com/ham_files/cablebox.htm. In my case the dish is mounted between 15 and 20 feet up on a the side of a tower. The grounding block is on one tower leg From there the coax goes through bulkhead connectors in the bottom of a large NEMA 1 enclosure (weatherproof) and through underground conduit to the box with the bulkhead connector shown in the previous link. Just inside the house are the power supplies for the antenna mounted preamps. Note all compression connectors are used. They give a very good grip and make a weather proof connection to the cable. However the overall connection still needs to be weather proofed using tape or my preference, flooded heat shrink tubing. Flooded heat shrink has a layer of hot melt glue on the inside and makes strong mechanical connections that are weather proof.
The dish is going up another 10 feet, to clear the neighbor's huge Willow tree<sigh>. I've been here nearly 25 years and that thing is STILL growing. When the dish is raised the grounding block will be mounted about 2 to 3 feet below the dish. Then the two runs of RG-6 will be taped to the tower leg and run to the under side of the NEMA enclosure where they enter through what is essentially another grounding block. BTW, one of those runs goes through a different conduit (shown in the first link) back to my shop where I have a second satellite receiver.
The total run from the dish to the set in the house is about 120 feet. To the set in the shop it's about 60 feet. For the two UHF OTA antennas it's about 258 feet to the set in the house. To the set in the shop it's nearly 300' as it has to go into the house to the preamp power supplies, then through a splitter and back to the shop along with the CAT6 network cables.
On thing not mentioned is the handling of the RG-6 center conductor. When cutting or trimming the center conductor care should be taken to use a cutter that will not squash that conductor out of round. Lineman's pliers or the old side cutters don't normally do a good job at that. I think that squashed out end on the center conductor has been responsible for the failure of many a bulkhead connector as it's not only wider, but has sharp edges that can peel off metal inside the connector. The end of that center conductor should be slightly tapered with no burrs or sharp edges that can damage connectors. I use a "nipper" that is has curved blades, much like a miniature cable cutter which BTW should also be used for cutting coax. When stripping coax The foil should be trimmed neatly so no whiskers are left that might short out the connection.
I agree with others on using only quality components. However in the satellite and cable systems I've never been concerned about the number of connectors as they represent very little loss and I'm starting with plenty of signal although it does go through a lot of coax. Of course splitters drop the amount of signal available and putting in too many can drop the signal to marginal levels. With wall outlets I always put in a bulkhead connector and just run a jumper from the set to it and in all these years that has never been a problem. I would definitely not use quad shielded coax from the dish or antenna to the set. It's too easy to make bad connections unless you are really practiced up. As was mentioned in an earlier post, quad shielded coax is for use around the head end equipment where signal levels are very high and could cause problems.
I learned a trick from an AT&T phone tech while training to be a Uverse installer (in case the union goes on strike - I'm an IT guy actually):
Put a small piece of velcro (the hook or hard plastic side) on the end of the coax cutter (bottom of the finger loop). After you remove the foil, use this to brush the braid back down over the insulator prior to sliding on the connector. Works like a charm. The guy who came up with it got a special bonus!
